The party's over 16/16

December 21, 2003

I can't believe how nervous I feel. And freezing! Man, Cape Town is cold. I thought it was summer here. I have to wear pants and a jumper all the time, and forget about nighttime. I think it's about 20C during the day.
I'm gonna actually die in Toronto.

Cape Town, lovely city. Actually kinda reminds me of Toronto, during our summer but. Especially the prices of things. Gone are the days of the crap Rand. It's pretty strong now. Which sucks. It's a very nice city though. I mean, I haven't spent much time here so I can't really give you a good/fair critique of the Mother City but I can tell you it's very, very Western. Did a couple of tourist things. Climbed Table Mountain which I actually enjoyed. I know I've said I will never climb anything again, but this was really worth it. Had a great group of people, much sweat, lots of laughs and a stunning view to make it all the better.
Absolutely breathtaking. We found we were above the clouds and at the end of the earth (The coke at the end of the Gods Must Be Crazy had to have been tossed from here). The mountains all tumble straight into the oceans. We even met some mountain goats on the way up. Very worthwhile. Not a lonely planet ploy :)

I arrived in Cape Town just 3 nights ago. Missioned it here from Mozambique. It was pretty impressive...and easy. Luxury buses here in SA. Movies, toilets, the works.

Going back in time by steps: Maputo. I don't care what anyone says, it's a cool city. European influence but still very African. Fairly safe, meaning I had no problems although it's not unheard of.

Ok, I'm having a very hard time here trying to tell this story. Basically my friend Richard and I left Zimbabwe on a drunken whim. My whim. I had gotten talking to this Danish couple about diving and decided to go back to Tofo for a bit more Manta Rays. We spent a few more days in Harare then went on our journey. It took 3 days of travel thanks to the shit roads and buses in Moz. But we made it. Got to apologize to Niki and John at Tofo Scuba for never emailing them about not taking the job there. And then went on 3 glorious dives. The dive down to Manta Reef was even better then my last one back in June. Snorkeled just above a giant Whale Shark...ok, held my breath just above a Whale Shark.

Oh my god...can you believe I just finished this entire email and fucking hotmail didn't save my fucking draft! Oh man...and it had finally gotten good. Shit.

Ok, anyway...Diving. Mantas, big huge mantas. And dolphins. At least 12 riding the waves just meters from the boat. It was so wicked. The following morning, when we were meant to leave for Maputo, which explains why I had to race to Cape Town, I went to Giant's castle, a drift dive. Negative descent, meaning no air in your BCD, just a head first plummet down 30 meters to the bottom of the ocean. Huge current. Had to swim into it to prevent being taken miles out into the ocean. More big ass mantas and 3 devil rays that followed us all the way, swimming/flying graceful circles around us. Unbelievable.

Finally left for Maputo, spent a few days, had a big night then went on our bus to Jo'burg early early.

Had a great time at the border. The guards search your bags entirely. Of course Richard and the other Rasta were the first to be searched. Golly why?

They did mange to catch some dude who was so obviously trying to sell dodgy dvds in SA. That was a nice delay.

The difference in landscaping between SA and Africa. So long to all the banana groves, papaya trees, villages. welcome neat plantations. It was so strange. I missed the look of Africa. And wow, so many white folk.

Made it to Jo’burg. Didn't see much, just the bus depot which was chockers with security. Said my final goodbye to Malawi when Richard left to go find his brother. Then hauled all my crap onto my last bus in Africa. Kinda different from the chicken buses I was used to taking. Movies and everything! And can you believe the movie they played? Out of Africa. Oh my god, how funny is that? And to make it even stranger, it had been almost a year to the day when I first saw that movie in Toronto.

It had been really fun travelling with an African. So nice to see things through the eyes of someone so new (? for lack of a better word). It was so refreshing experiencing things with someone who had never even dreamt of seeing such things. It was also pretty handy as far as buying stuff went. Basically I would go to the curio market, decide what I wanted, go back and tell R and he would go get them for me at non mzungu price. Excellent. And he would even carry the crap. All I can say is that bloody airline better let me bring it all:)

Arrived in Cape Town mid day and these lovely kiwis took it upon themselves to aid me with my burdens to the hostel. And as I write this they are annoying the shit out of me. Very hard to write while they banter in my ears. Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

What did I do in Cape Town....climbed table Mountain, went to some bars, saw Lord of the Rings which I thought could have been edited better but my attention span is now shot so it made it very difficult to sit still for so long. I did like it though. I basically acclimatized myself back to the western world. Now all I have to worry about is dealing with the cold in TO.

It always amazes me how small Africa is. I've run into a girl that had been working in Malawi when I was there. I had never talked to her there but we recognized one anther. Also ran into my friend Trinity whom I met in Malawi twice and Moz originally. Also ran into a Malawian from Nkhata Bay who knows everyone I know. It's so strange.

It's sorta a happy end to my year. I'm in the company of some really good people which is a common theme in Africa. I have met a lot of crazies as well but, hey, that makes it far more interesting. I really miss those that I travelled with. Jess, Tom, Phil...you all made my trip all the more special. I cannot tell you how much you mean to me. Thank you for putting up with me!

If you ever have the chance to come to this continent, do it. you will be amazed. It's safe and friendly and visually stunning. Very addicting.

And get this: South Africans don't consider themselves in Africa. They will actually say they are going to Africa if they head north. I guess it's just in the name.

I have no regrets from this trip. I don't feel bad for not seeing Namibia, Botswana and SA. My experiences in Malawi alone have made it all worthwhile.
Now I'm just getting cheesy. Also this email is not even close to being as good as the last version. So this is the end. I hope you all enjoyed my emails....Lord knows I enjoyed myself!
Love you all,
thi

Possibly the final story 15/16

December 4, 2003

It was about a year ago that I remember watching a program on CNN. It was about Zimbabwe. I remember commenting to Mike, who was tending bar with me at the time (it was a very slow Sunday) that that was one African country that I would not be visiting. Too dangerous. Lord knows what would happen to a mzungu there.

I found out while I was here that it is actually very safe. Used to be the jewel of Africa as far as travellers went. The problem is they have a really shit government. Now I know that’s a common statement for Africa but really, Mugabe is a twat. He’s killing everyone. The inflation is so high that prices change daily…but wages stay the same. Now, if you’re traveling on the Yankee dollar, which I am, you’re laughing. It’s cheap as hell. Right now $1 = $5800 Zim on the black market (the safe-in-stores-not-the-streets-go-straight-to-jail-or-lose-it-all black-market). You can live like a queen for virtually nothing. Mind you, the bank rate is something like $800 Zim to the dollar but who’s stupid enough to trade on that.

Did something crazy and went to a place called Antelope Park. Had heard about it from a French girl I met in Zanzibar. She had worked/volunteered there raising lion cubs and of course, I was very intrigued by this. Obviously, I never made it there for employment because I was stuck in Malawi but I was still curious about the place. When I got to Harare, I met up with a Danish couple that was going. Thought why not. Am I glad I went…and never worked there. It’s basically an Overland truck amusement park. Lots of money for all kinds of ‘fun activities’. You know, riding elephants, walking with lions, playing with cubs, blah, blah, blah. But the reality of the place: first, they pay their staff pitiful amounts and no food or transport back to town. This means they have to walk 7 km to and from the park from the nearest transport. Oh, the mzungus who ‘volunteer’ get room and board, use of all the amenities (i.e. the pool and hot showers) and $30USD a month. The African staff gets $33, 800 Zim a month. A loaf of bread costs $2800Zim. A term of school for a child costs $45 000Zim not including uniforms or supplies. You do the math. Not so nice when the place pulled in $2000 USD in less than a hour with one elephant.

Oh, I can say even more. They tried to fuck us over with general costs. We kept asking for the price list and no one would give it to us. We had been told a double would cost $10US and it turned out to cost $24…a person! I didn’t pay. I paid $10. They were nice enough to admit they were wrong.

Anywho, I did get to play with some lion cubs, for free. It was fun, as you could imagine. But we spent no more money than we were forced to at this….place.

Ok, one last bad Zim story. There’s a man staying at the backpackers we’re at. He’s owned and run a safari camp called Hippo Pools for the past 20 odd years. He’s a white Zimbabwean. He was invaded a few weeks ago. They almost killed him, but stopped because an American tourist was with him. Now they have his place, have destroyed it; not that he can get in and the police won’t help (hmmmm, wonder why?). Now he’s trying to get his life back.

This is a very sad difficult country.

But oddly, the people are lovely. Very friendly, helpful, great English, clever. Amazing. And the tourists are staying away in droves. It’s very western here too. You can really see the British influence. You can even order pizza delivery in Harare. There’s even skyscrapers here! It’s crazy! Where am I?

Saw Victoria Falls. They were very impressive. Water, spilling over a cliff and only $20 USD to see them. I would say they were nicer than Niagara Falls though….

Get this: it seems I am remembered by my fellow travel companions for, of all things, my potty mouth. That’s right. That’s’ what people remember me for. Hmmmm, think I should maybe clean up my mofoho vocabulary?

Did manage to see some more of Malawi. Spent my bday in Nkhata Bay (thanks to all for the bday wishes!), then left for Senga Bay where my friend Richard is from. Chilled out on the beach for a few days, even met up with Jan, who I traveled with in Tanzania and her boyfriend Tom. We sadly parted ways for one last time and Richard I headed to Cape McClear to find out the difference between that and Nkhata Bay. Phil and I have found that you’re either an Nbay person or a Cape McClear person. I’m still an Nbay person.

And now I’m getting prepared to head back to Mozambique for some sun, sand and manta rays before racing to Cape Town for my flight home. It’s crazy. I can’t believe it’s been a year.
Some things I’ll miss:
◦Coke in a glass bottle. Man, it tastes so much better!
◦The laid back way of life here. I’m so not looking forward to being hectic again.
◦Friendly people.
◦The odd African habits that I can’t explain at all.
◦The heat. I finally have gotten used to it.
I keep meeting Africans who complain about the heat. I think we should switch places!

Oh, I can’t do this list right now…
It’s too hot to think :)

Hope all is well!
See ya soon,
love thi